Make gumbo...and friends

So after some experimentation, I think I've finally figured out the final recipe for gumbo z'herbes. I think I've rationalized the cooking times in the original recipe, filled in the missing instructions, sorted out my bunch issue, and better yet, figured out how to amp up the flavor of the meat, without distorting its delicate flavor or deviating too far from the original recipe. Someone please try this and let me know what you think!

My biggest issue with the original recipe was the flavor of the meat. It was just sort of bleh. My first idea was to ditch the veal and ham and replace with andouille sausage. So, I sauteed up a little and mixed it into a small bowl of the gumbo and let it sit overnight. Nah, just way too strong for this recipe.

My next idea was to up the pork flavor by getting rid of the hated Crisco and replacing it with something that actually tasted like, well, something. I thought about rendering guanciale, dry-cured, un-smoked Italian hog cheeks (sort of like bacon, but even more porky. Its just about the most perfect pork product known to man), to saute the meat and onions in, but that's not really very New Orleans, is it? I decided to try rendered duck fat and a mix of bacon grease and butter. Both worked just fine, although I lean toward the duck fat, but bacon and butter are easy and good too. And that's just what the recipe needed. The meat doesn't slam you over the head, but at the same time, it doesn't get lost in the bowl.

Both rice and gumbo file' weren't listed in the original recipe, which was a real head scratcher for me. I'm not sure if they were left out because they're such a given, like "duh, of course you wouldn't serve this without rice or file' powder, asshole" or Dunbar's indeed served it sans rice and file'. I never had the original dish at Dunbar's, so I'm just going by what we did at home. At home the dish was always served over rice and with file', so I've included a recipe for clove scented rice that works nicely with the flavors in the gumbo.

Just a quick aside about file' powder. Gumbo file' is just another name for ground sassafras leaves, (one of the Native American contributions to Louisiana cooking), and its added in small amounts as thickening agent and flavor enhancer. Dorothy called it Louisiana MSG. And while it won't raise your blood pressure like the real MSG, it can get really stringy if its cooked too long. To get around that, if a dish was going to be reheated, we added it at the table, not to the pot, with a small amount stirred into each bowl. And that's what I've done here.

As lagniappe, I've included a recipe for how to render some duck fat. Pretty amazing stuff to have on hand. (Try panfrying potatoes in it. They become a whole different beast.)

I must say this first go round has been a lot of fun, although I'll probably not be saying that by Sunday. I've got a ton of gumbo to get through.

Oh, and one more item...I forgot to mention this in my last posts, but legend in New Orleans holds that its unlucky to use an even number of greens in this dish, with 7 the norm, but 13 also not uncommon. Also the story goes that for each type of green used, a new friend will be made in the coming year. So go make gumbo and some friends this year.



Gumbo Z'Herbes with Clove Scented Rice

3 to 3 1/2 lbs. greens in total, with a minimum of a mix of at least 5 of the following: collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, spinach, watercress, beet tops, carrot tops, parsley, chicory, radish tops, green cabbage
3 green onions
36 cups water (2.25 gallons)
1 lb. ham, cut into 1" dice
1 lb. lean veal, cut into 1" dice
1 tbs. rendered duck fat or a combination of bacon grease and unsalted butter to make up 1 tbs
1 large white onion, chopped
1 tbs. chopped parsley
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs thyme
2 whole cloves
2 whole allspice
Salt, pepper, cayenne to taste
gumbo file' powder


1. Wash all greens thoroughly. Fill a sink or a large pan with cool water. Separate the leaves and drop into the water. Swish the leaves around to release any dirt, then leave them alone, which allows the dirt and grit to settle to the bottom. Remove leaves, drain pan or sink and rinse. If you see traces of dirt in the bottom of the sink or bowl repeat as many times as is necessary to have the water clear of grit and dirt. Curly leaves may need multiple washings.

2. Remove any hard stems or tough centers, use only the tender parts. Put leaves in one large pot or divide equally among two pots and cover with 36 cups of water. Bring the greens to a boil then lower the heat, simmer for approximately 1 hour or until tender.

3. Remove greens to the bowl of a food processor and process in batches. Reserve cooking liquid and greens puree.

4. Saute ham and veal in rendered duck fat or bacon fat and butter about 7 minutes in a deep iron skillet over a medium high flame, stirring frequently. Add white onion and chopped parsley, and stirring frequently, cook until onion is brown, approximately 6 minutes. Add pureed greens to the skillet and simmer 7 to 8 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat

5. To a large stockpot add 18 cups of the cooking liquid, the contents of the skillet, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, and allspice. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and allow to simmer for 1 hour.

6. Season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Remove bay leaves, allspice berries, cloves and thyme. Serve in soup bowls with clove scented rice. Gumbo file' can be stirred in each bowl at the table. Serves 10-12.


Easy Rendered Duck Fat
Skin and fat from one whole duck, avoiding the tail area
1/2 cup cold water

1. cut skin into uniform pieces and place into a heavy bottomed pot. Add water and simmer over medium heat until water evaporates and skin is crispy.

2. Strain fat through a fine sieve. Fat can be frozen or stored in the refrigerator for several weeks. Makes approximately 1 cup of fat.

Clove Scented Rice
2 Cups Long Grain Rice
4 Cups Water
1 tsp. salt
3 whole cloves
1 tsp. unsalted butter

1. In a saucepan, bring salt, cloves and water to boil over high heat.

2. Stir in rice, add butter..

3. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer for 20 minutes or until water is absorbed. Remove cloves before serving.

Up next is a recipe from Brennan's Restaurant--Shrimp Victoria. Shrimp and mushrooms in a cream sauce enriched with sour cream and white wine, served over parslied rice. Yum. A whole lotta white. Yay! A break from all the green.